The view from the viewpoint. Nice conditions but crowded - I said to Ray I felt like we were in Disneyland or something.
The boys went surfing, I got some videos, but they're pretty slow to load so here's some stills:
Ray on Big Blue
Zappa on Big Yellow
Zappa popping up
Zappa riding Big Blue.
Big Blue is Ray's most treasured possession. He got it custom made.
I was chatting to Jenny when Zappa came out and said 'You gonna have a go then?' and I was like 'Yeah.' Why not ey? The deal was, Zappa would get Big Yellow out through the waves for me, I'd just get on it, and he'd push me out. Not very strenuous. As it was, I was so feeble he ended up towing me and the board out. Heehee. What would I do without my handy Zappa?
My wave came along and I caught it, popped up, which was stupidly easy because the board is so big and wide and steady, but not only that, lo and behold, it TURNS. Like, EASILY. I love foamies because they're like catching a train, but you can't go left and right much on trains. I fell off and came up laughing and asked for another go. Zappa was very obliging and I caught an even better one, and I turned LEFT and brought it back, and felt like a real surfer! It felt WONDERFUL. I'll tell you something, I was all like 'Yeah I've decided to finally admit to myself that surfing is not for me. I am terrified by waves and it's too cold and too mean.' But when the waves break in chest-height water and don't hurt you and don't turn your hands and feet white then blue then purple then red and excruciating - to sum it up, when you don't mind falling in, WOW is surfing the business. And on top of that, this board is the shiz!
Next I caught a greeny (unbroken wave) for the first time in my LIFE! Woooo! Again did a nice little left turn, brought it back, turned right. Wave was running out. Go for the hang 5!!! Sprint up board! Board goes nose down and flips! Everyone's wet! Had to be done. Yes I know you have to be going more than 1mph to hang 5, but like I say, it has to be done, because it's a massive board and you love it.
High five from Zappa and one of us, with Ray's surfing magazines from the 60s that we had a read through in the back of our minds, suggested attempting tandem riding. Me at the front. Him at the back. First attempt nearly worked but I didn't stand up. Second attempt while I was popping up I bashed Zappa off the board with my bum. Hilarious. Tandem attempt to be rescheduled.
And do you know what, after the surfing I felt better than I had done in days.
?!
Oo guess what. Tomorrow is my BIRTHDAY!!!! I am excited. Once upon a time there used to be animal-shaped balloons in Tescos. I believe I gave one to Sammy T (or was it Scott) when one of them had a birthday house party. They were wonderful (imagine, you're blowing up a ballooon and when you're finished you look at it and it's a mouse face with balloon ears!), and when I discovered they'd been discontinued I mourned for years. Then lo and behold, I found them in IGA, the local supermarket! IN the shopping basket you go. I have a birthday coming up. I have got my gluten-free mud cake packet mix, and extra chocolate to go on top and in the mixture, and purple shiny candles (this is to recreate a Cadbury's effect. If I had some gold foil to put on the base it would be complete. Cadbury's don't do that gold foil around their dairy milk etc anymore do they? FOOLS. Throwing away a big part of Cadbury heritage there). I nearly bought Happy Birthday candles because they were rainbow coloured but somehow it seemed really sad making yourself a cake that says Happy Birthday on it. Anyone know what I mean? Ehh.
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