Actually I’ve decided I’ll build up to it.
We found the most amazing beach called Hungry Head just south of Urunga, it is MASSIVE and the sand has such a high silicone content it squeaks if you drag your feet through it. And there was no one there, maybe one or two people within the nearest kilometre, but I mean Manly and Bondi have people everywhere, and loads of surfers in the water scowling at you if you’re not amazing and haven’t been there for 15 years. ANYWAY look at the beach!
And Zappa went surfing and I went for a little walk, and I felt that proper on-holiday feeling walking along the beach in my bikini all nice and warm, picking up shells to look at as I went. Pretty impressive me going for a walk at all. Then I came back and Zappa came out of the sea, and he said ‘Come out with me! We’ll put you on my board and I can push you about. The water’s only about up to my shoulder where the waves break and they’re not very big.’ And I was INSPIRED by this idea and I said ‘Ok!’ and I went out and got on his board and MY it is small – I mean it’s not a short board, but it’s 7’6” when I’m used to about 8’6” nice big floaty boards. And it was so skinny! Anyway I was so excited and Zappa pushed me into a wave and I CAUGHT IT and I STOOD UP WOOOOOO OFF I WENT and I was like SHIT YEAH and well the waves broke quite close to the beach and I didn’t get off because I was having so much fun and so suddenly the fins stuck in the sand, and like it was a horse refusing a jump the board stopped dead and I went flying forwards, and went DMPH onto the sand and the wave ground me along the sand on my front for a while then made me do crazy pencil rolls, and I was laughing so hard even though it hurt. Cos I’d caught a wave! And sort of got wiped out in about 6 inches of water!! Oh it was good. And I ran straight back out and Zappa helped me get back, and I got another one but didn’t stand up cos it felt so fast and mental. And THEN I went straight back out again, oh I think I let Zappa catch one, then I went out with him again and he said he thought we should go over to the right a bit, and I said COME ON THEN and turned the board and he let go and I paddled off! And it felt so good to be on a surfboard right there and then. Like I went off surfing because it’s so cold and terrifying and you just get beaten up. But here, on this beach, the water was a good temperature, the waves were nice and soft 2 footers, you only had to make it about 15 metres from the nice sandy beach to catch one, so it wasn’t scary at all, it just felt good. And I caught another one and I stood up again! And along I wooshed, WOO I’m surfing, oo I could attempt a turn, how flashy – and I turned it right and then I suddenly grounded again! I didn’t go completely down though, I just fell on my knee and look! I got a SURFING INJURY!!!!
I am so cool. If anyone asks I am going to say ‘Oh that? Yeah just a little ding – I was surfing and wiped out, yeah bounced off the bottom a bit. Haha (world wise laugh).’
TOTALLY AWESOMEWhere’s the beach?! (Relevant to climbers)
Oh ALSO, by the car park for this amazing best beach, we saw our first ROOS!!!So crazy they are.
Anyhoo I have come to Bellingen library to proclaim these things and our internet time is running out so I'd better go. On Thursday we're going on up to Byron Bay, so hopefully will have internet there.